Understanding the threat that Waterborne Viruses pose to humans:
Combating Viruses after the water has been filtered:
1) Clear water is a sign of pure water. Always drain long-standing pipes for 30 seconds to one minute before drinking! (Cheap remote motels?)
2) 1 Gallon water is disinfected by 8-16 drops of regular household bleach (visually about 1/4 of a teaspoon) - double that for cloudy water. Shake and let stand 30 minutes. One teaspoon will
disinfect 5 gallons. Immediately after treating, water must initially have a slight smell of chlorine. If it does not - repeat the process.
3) Household bleach is relatively harmless. The smell or �waft� of chlorine is not bad: it indicates that water is treated and germ free. Once treated and disinfected, the chlorine smell will go away in a few days.
4) Regularly used water from large tanks may be treated once or twice a month with 1 Oz. bleach per 200 gallons or 5 Oz. bleach per 1000 gallons.
5) Long-standing water in tanks will be disinfected w/ 1 pint household bleach per 1000 gallons. (2500 gal tanks are fine with 3 pints.)
6) Bleach effectively kills bacteria and viruses, stops smells and then breaks down. It's effective germ killing alkaline property is completely neutralized very quickly. It does not stay chemically active in tanks for more than a few days. Most germs require sunlight to grow. Store water in
7) If water is relatively clear: but has a noticeable smell of chlorine: it is drinkable, disinfected, and harmless. Humans need 2 quarts per day.
The above text is designed to be printed, cut-out, and taped inside a cabinet door, or saved as a reminder. 6 % sodium hypochlorite solution, referred to as " common household chlorine bleach", is not a seriously poisonous substance to humans. It is an alkaline salt. It is not an "acid". However It very, very effectively kills bacteria and viruses upon contact. It is the world-wide chemical of choice for treating drinking water, or for effectively sterilizing everything from shower stalls to surgical instruments. Truthfully, very heavily chlorinated water may be more irritating to the lungs - if it is used for showers, than it is harmful to the intestinal tract if used for drinking purposes. Even drinking straight household bleach rarely results in death. The alkaline properties of undiluted bleach may cause painful chemical burns to the esophagus and stomach - but it is not deadly poisonous. Bleach must always be kept out of the reach of children - because not only might they drink it - they may get it in their eyes.
All long-standing water that is exposed to air and sunlight grows bacteria and other organisms which may include the very troublesome protozoa, Giardia. These organisms may cause people to become very sick. Iodine has long been carried by back-packers for cases of emergency because very small long-lasting tablets effectively disinfect germ infected water. Iodine is at least 1000 times more toxic than is sodium hypochlorite (bleach). Unlike sodium hypochlorite, iodine does not break down. It does, however, cause an unpleasant taste in treated water. This is why back packers are given the option to carry a taste neutralizing tablet for use if water has been treated with iodine. Iodine does remain in the body. Iodine poisoning is of greater concern for longer term situations than is the slight smell of bleach. In any regular situation, bleach is the by far the preferred method for purifying drinking water because it effectively kills harmful organisms, and then it breaks down and is quickly chemically neutralized. It should be noted that fish, mosquitoes, algae, etc. can not - and do not live - in poisonous water. Given the choice between two still ponds in the wild: one with mosquitos, or algae growing in it -- and another near-by it, which may be seemingly clear - I would prefer to drink the water that has the organic life growing in it. The other standing water, even though it appears clear - is obviously unusable or undesirable to other living organisms and therefore it may be poisonous. New well-water should ALWAYS be tested by the drilling company to determine if the water coming from the ground is truly safe for drinking. Ground water can be unsuitable for a number of reasons, but in general it is very good water. Without any doubt, the easiest way to insure clean, safe, pure drinking water, is to instal a water purification system that acts both as a filter, and a purifier. These are the common water purification systems available everywhere. They filter particles and purify the water from bacteria, viruses and other harmful chemicals. An EXCELLENT portable water purification device can be purchased for emergency use for under $70.00. Home water purification systems, even purifiers that attach directly to the water tap - are absolutely excellent! This is the best way to actually insure that the water you're drinking is clean and pure.
These systems, which act both as filters, and purifiers - are the systems of choice for any rational person. It is nice to know the ratio's of bleach necessary for disinfecting water if one fears that water may be contaminated - but this is intended for people who use large water tanks, or to be guide-lines for serious emergency situations. For normal living, modern water purification
systems are definitely the methods of choice for eliminating bacteria, viruses, smells, and other undesirable substances.
Posted from Randomthoughtsandguns as it relates to survival and
What do Killeen, Columbine, Virginia Tech, and Newton have to do with the Washington Navy Yard?
The response of the first responders. In each case the shooter was able to kill multiple people long before any coherent response could be mounted by security personnel or first responders.
Why is that? Simply put, each shooter (or in Columbines case, the shooters) obeyed some simple principles.
Operational Security. By maintaining OPSEC they were able to plan ahead, get their weapons into position, and start their killing spree without tipping off the security forces.
Audacity. Each target, in every single case, was a known "gun free zone" patrolled and protected by security guards and/or the local police.
Violence of action. Once they started, they didn't stop until they were stopped by someone else with a gun.
I didn't include Laughner, Hassan, and Holmes in here because they lived, and in each case there were plenty of warning signs that were ignored by the security forces. You could make the case that Virginia Tech should fall into "lots of warning signs" category but Cho didn't leave a huge trail of breadcrumbs.
In every case politicians fall into the wishful thinking trap that "if we would have just known ahead of time" they could have done something. Politicians love the idea of "pre-crime prevention" except that it doesn't happen that way.
Look at a chessboard. At the beginning of the game there are no unknowns. But at the beginning of the game you don't know if black or white will win, or the game will draw as a stalemate. Even with perfect knowledge of the pieces, the board, there is no way to know who will win.
How much more complicated do you think a nation of 300 Million individuals is than a chessboard with 64 squares and 16 pieces?
The lesson learned from these shootings is that prevention is impossible, and that the only logical strategy is one of empowered response. If someone shoots at you, and you can't shoot back, you are screwed. Denying people the ability to respond is criminal, and I do hope that someone can make the case for criminal negligence in court.
Now, what is truly scary, is that our mass shootings are done by crazy people or individuals who have been pushed too far and just snap. If an operation was conducted by a fully rational individual (or team, lets not forget Columbine) that worked through the operational planning framework from infil to exfil, the body counts could be much higher, and none of us would know until communications had been restored. With the known state sponsors of terrorism out there, this is a frightening possibility.
I can't help but think that Israel has the right idea in arming teachers, grandparents, reservists, etc. If the enemy is plotting an operation in your midst, then giving everyone the ability to respond is the only logical solution. "
You may have heard this before: “"The key is not the will to win... everybody has that. It is the will to prepare to win that is important." – Bobby Knight (remember that hot-headed NCAA basketball coach? Yep that’s the him.)
I’d venture to say the will to prepare to win is an often overlooked skill set in today’s microwaveable ready world. Can anyone blame us? We’ve been programmed to take care of things at the last minute. Everything we want, we get because of “just in time” logistics at the super-market or convenience stores. With lay-away and credit cards do we really even have to plan and save for what we want? And believe me, we’re not pointing any fingers. The “just-in-time” thing effects all of us.
However, there are some things I think we can all agree that deserve a little farther look down the road when it comes to planning a favorable outcome for the protection of our family. Taking time and spending a few dollars to learn or send ourselves for retraining when it comes to survival, self-defense and first aid can mean the difference in life and death. Trying not to be melodramatic, the reality is that training equals proficiency and
proficiency equals the speed in which we can help save lives, defend threats and find safety.
And unfortunately we can type away on blogs, write books, and theorize about what’s what, but it doesn’t replace getting “out there” with qualified instructors and learning new skills, or for some of us, knocking the rust off and retraining. It’d be nice if it weren’t so, but survival skill sets are a perishable good if not used regularly.
And that’s where the tag line comes in: Having the will to win in a bad situation is common, but having the will to prepare to win is stacking the deck in your favor. Having the will to get out there and prepare to win (by
training) against life threatening situations is a great start. Our families deserves the best protection we can offer.
Luckily for us there are a number of private companies in several different regions of the US that are willing to train law abiding citizens in wilderness survival, self-defense and first aid: John Mosby (West & Northwest), SFMedic(East / Southeast), Max Velocity (East), DTG (Great Lakes) . These are just to name a few. It seems that most students are satisfied when finding training instructors who’s expertise is vouched for by those in their respective community of contact. Equally important is feedback from fulfilled students.
Life gets in the way sometimes, but it’s important to take the time to prepare to beat the odds of a SHTF situation. We hope that as summer is waning this post finds you and your family healthy and full of energy. Perhaps we’ll see you in the field when it’s time to retrain some of those survival skills.
Get the training while the training is available . . . acquire the skills to
save a life.
Cost: $150 per person
Objective: Participants will learn to use the latest in first aid doctrine gained from the military and applied to situations that the family defender or community defense team might find themselves faced with during a SHTF scenario.
One of the major issues facing those in the preparedness community is lack of experience in “real world” violent situations. DTG will train you in the latest techniques of Tactical Combat Casualty Care. Participants will learn to prioritize actions to take during a crisis so that you and yours have the best chance of surviving the incident you can, given your level of expertise and other factors. When the class is over, you’ll have the basic knowledge and information with which to build an even more in-depth trianing program for your own group.
Class Duration: 8 Hours
– Care Under Fire
– Tactical Field Care
– Casualty Evacuation Care
– Blow Out Kit Contents / Placement
– Use of Blow Out Kit Contents
– Treatment of the 3 most preventable causes of battlefield death
Registration: Send a note of interest to firstname.lastname@example.org,
subject line: TC3 Class
Class size is limited, so confirm your registration today!
Digital Survival . . . .
From the Combat Studies Group:
"With the recent revelations pertaining to government spying on it's own citizens (does this really surprise anyone?), I wanted to offer a quick primer on regaining some of your electronic security. This is by no means an exhaustive list, but a number of things you can start doing right now. (I also offer a course on this subject that covers it in great detail.)
One caveat I need to point out before we go further is this - While any and all of the following tips will offer a high level of privacy, most of them are rendered potentially useless if they are employed on the Windows or Mac
operating systems. Why? Because Microsoft and Apple have entered into complicit agreements with government bodies in the form of secret backdoor access to your system and no anti-virus or malware program will save you from it as it is a "legitimate" part of the operating system's code.
Where does that leave you? Either install a Linux based OS, or at the very least get a bootable USB linux system.
Now, there are those (including MS and Apple) that will argue that there is no such thing and this is just wild tinfoil hat talk. Ultimately it boils down to this for me......do I trust organizations that have a track record of
disregard for client privacy and offer software that is closed source and hidden from public audit - or do I trust a product that is designed with privacy in mind and is open source and regularly audited by the public?
Backdoor Info 1
1. Stop using Yahoo, Google and Hotmail for your email. In the last week alone I have received at least 4 emails from "friends" who had their accounts hijacked/hacked (all Yahoo). Consider smaller email providers that will
respect your privacy......GMX, Lavabit, Hushmail just to name a few. That doesn't mean that you can completely trust these providers, it simply means they will not read your email for marketing purposes and will only surrender information to governments within the appropriate judicial process. (You still would need a VPN or Tor to mask your IP address and PGP keys to encrypt your content - but that is another article all by itself)
2. Stop using Yahoo, Bing, Google for your searches. Instead use DuckDuckGo, Startpage, Ixquick or Privatelee.
3. Stop using Skype and Google voice. Instead try out options that offer encrypted calls like iCall and Jitsi. You can setup a free phone account with Ostel - they have instructions on their site to setup the phone software.
4. Setup a chat/instant message account using Pidgin (Adium on Mac) or Jitsi, which will allow encrypted communication via OTR. I recommend setting up an xmpp account for free with DuckDuckGo HERE
5. Encrypt any personal data in a separate drive with Truecrypt or LUKS (use the Encfs Manager in Linux)
6. Start using a VPN service (one that utilizes openvpn protocols)
If you are considering a move to a Linux based system, here are a few places to start....
If you are used to using Windows try - Zorin OS
If you are used to using Mac try - Pear OS
or give these a try - Ubuntu or Mint
These are just the tip of the iceberg, but will get you started on the road to recovery......"
This is a “take-off” on the earlier post in June, “getting out there”.
In our case, we have our Level 1, 2 and 3 kits, ready to go. The kits are configured the way we’d best use them, we’ve balanced load properly, we carry our Level 1 gear everywhere we go, and our Level 2 and 3 gear usually isn’t too far away . . . Now what?
Proper instruction is definitely a pre-requisite to getting out and training. Printed instruction is good, and a live instructor who demonstrates, trains you, and then grades you, is better.
Basic survival instruction should cover the following: Body Temperature Regulation (Shelter and Fire), Hydration (Water Purification), First Aid, Sanitation and Food collection / preparation.
A good printed source for that kind of information:
Free: FM 21-76 US Military Survival Manual: http://www.equipped.org/fm21-76.htm
$15 shipped: The USRSOG Manual: http://www.usrsog.org/manu.htm (probably the best information for the money around today).
Again, instruction given in person with demonstration is probably the best return on investment. If you know a former military instructor who knows his or her way around the survival world, who’s willing to help you learn, that’s always a plus.
Another thing to do is search out companies in your local area that offer survival training. For example, in Michigan, Great Lake Survival teams up with Defensive Training Group to offer disaster preparedness, wilderness survival and team building training.
If you’re not in the Michigan area, there are several survival training companies that we recommend across the country. Drop us a line and we might be able to point you in the right direction depending on where you
Assuming we’ve had proper instruction, we now have our Level 1, 2 and 3 kits squared away. We’re ready to go do some Training. The backyard is a good place to start. Here’s how we would recommend getting one’s “feet wet” with survival training.
1. Basic Survival Training: Stay a night out in your local camp ground or back yard with your level 1 and 2 kit. (obviously if you have a medical condition, this trumps whatever training you are attempting, use common sense). Construct a shelter with your knife and paracord. Make survival fire. Make an insulated place to sleep in your shelter. If available try and catch some fish with the line, hooks and insects for bait. Filter and purify some water with in your utility pot. If the going gets too tough, go inside and figure out what went wrong or what you could do better. The next time, do it on a rainy day and night in the same area. Each time you have a successful experience, record it, what went well, what you could do better. Each time you do a new training day, make the conditions just a little more difficult. Basic Survival Training should be just over night. Surviving outside for a night is a skill that just about anybody with the right tools, instruction and attitude can obtain.
2. Intermediate Survival Training: This is where we like to turn survival training into a “weekend thing”. One night here or there is great, but now we’re ready for a couple days in the bush. Still it would be good to go close to home in the woods not too far away in case something goes wrong. We have our Level’s 1, 2 and 3.
We’ve set up shelter, made a fire, have purified water (hot or tepid depending on the weather). Maybe (if it’s
legal with the proper hunting permits), want to set up a few animal snares and do some hunting with our “survival pistol”. Maybe some wild game over the camp fire that night would be tasty. Each time we go
out we test out selves a little more, making sure not to get in over our heads.
3. Advanced Survival Training: The only thing different in advanced training is that we’re extending our stay in the wild, and the weather might be a bit more extreme or the location a bit more remote. There
is inherent risk in this type of training. The individual bears the sole responsibility for his or her outcome. If your skills aren’t up to snuff or you haven’t been properly trained, it could cost a life.
Having been trained properly, we think the inherent risk in survival training is worth the return on investment to us. Each time we “push” ourselves to be a little better or a little less comfortable in our training, we develop the attribute of being tough.
People will ultimately have to make the decision inside their mind, whether critiquing a few episodes of “Man vs. Wild” has the same merit as getting out on a regular basis to train and re-train survival skills. We try not to fool ourselves into thinking that it does.
There is a sense of satisfaction in retraining old skills and testing new skills, knowing that our loved ones can count on us to give them a fighting chance in bad situations.
As always, Thanks for reading,
- The GLSC Team
Level III Survival Ruck Purpose: Remote wilderness excursions, SAR, hiking and hunting trips.
If we’re out in “the bush” and any significant distance from home . . . the level III kit is a great thing to have. As you can see, the level III kit has the original level II kit attached to its back.
With the items listed below, the large ruck shouldn’t be too heavy, but should be able to sustain an individual for several weeks in the wild (assuming proficiency in bush craft). Whether you are hunting, hiking, or just plain surviving, the level III kit should give a trained individual the tools to “keep on” for quite a while.
As listed in the previous blog entries on survival level kits, this is an outline. It can be changed to meet the needs of the individual or team. Obviously in an arctic environment, you’ll need a few different items in
that you may or may not need in the desert.
Level III Survival Ruck items:
Level II Kit: The level II kit should be in or on or attached to the large ruck. The level III Large ruck is not complete without it.
Waterproof Containers: One of the best things that any of us here have been taught and taught to others about organizing your gear is to use waterproof bags. When you do that, you can organize your gear in to “cells”. Food goes in one, clothing goes in another, etc., etc. MAC Sacks pictured below were developed for the USMC. There are a number of different styles and manufacturers, use the ones that seem most durable.
Waterproof Jacket / Pants: There are so many out there. One of our favorites is the condor “Summit, Softshell” purchased from www.ravenswoodenterprises.com . Actually there are a couple of these floating around here at Great Lake Survival. A good quality for a waterproof jacket to have would be a hood and opening under the arms for proper ventilation. With the advent of Gortex, finding something that suits your needs
shouldn’t be too hard at a reasonable price. Gortex pants are good thing to have as well. Pictured below are
a set of ECWCS Multicam Gortex coated jacket and pants.
Light Weight Poly-Propylene Long Johns / Extra set of Pants / Shirt: You can get a pair of poly-pros for $15 online and they are guaranteed to keep your skin drier and warmer. A cheap set of cargo pants and flannel shirt run about $18 at the local Walmart. In a waterproof sack, dry clothes to change into after a river crossing sure is a nice thing to have.
Tinder / Fuel for Stove: If everything is wet, it’s nice to have some dry oak splinters and some good tinder. This is a weight vs. return on investment depending on where you are and how much your level III kit weighs.
Candles: They can bring up the ambient temperature in a shelter even in arctic conditions. They are a must.
Hydration Bladder: Most small packs have an area built into them for a water bladder. With the survival
straw or whatever water purifier you use, you can keep up to 100 oz clean drinking water on you. In arctic weather, you can keep your hydration bladder from freezing by wearing it under your coat. The hydration bladder can be thrown in the Level II or Level III kits pretty easily.
Frog Gig: A small recurring pond is a great place to gig frogs for dinner. Such a lightweight tool . . . all you have to find a straight-ish pole to attach it too and you’re set.
Survival Pistol: .22 caliber pistols make collecting wild game a much easier task. A match grade barrel with premium ammo is the way to go. Below you can see a Browning Buckmark. Some prefer Smith & Wesson models, some like the Ruger models. If it works for you, and you can hit a golf ball at 25 yards with one try . . . you’re doing pretty good.
GMRS Radio: Get the best you can afford. We like the midland waterproof series. Extra batteries.
Extended range models. Most claim 25 to 35 mile ranges, but that’s usually only over open water or from mountain top to mountain top. We’ve personally seen brush so thick with a distance of less than a half
mile, reception between two parties was lost.
Survival Tomahawk: Obviously at GLSC, we’re partial to our product improved ‘hawks. They have paracord handles, a hammer on one end, and a blade on the other. You can build, destroy, defend against wild animals, and break free a trapped person with a ‘hawk. The personal favorite is the GLSC Pipehawk shown
Food Ration: Something lightweight and highly nutritious is the best option. Met-RX type
“colossal” bars are what’s used here. 3 bars can sustain a person for 3 days. With 12 bars and a few “freeze” dried meals, you can be set for 8 to 10 days without resupply. And the best thing are those rations in a waterproof
bag weigh only a couple pounds.
Sleeping Bag or Poncho Liner: Depending on your climate you may only need a poncho and liner for your sleeping bag. In the northern great lakes region we experience lows at night that dip to -20. One night during a
winter survival course, a reading was taken with an outside temp of -30 F . Pictured below is a Wiggy’s “ultra-lite”. The bag itself is good down to a real 0 degrees. If you add the over bag it covers you down to -40 F. There has not been a bag made yet that seems to do better than Wiggy’s lamilite filled bags. Worth their weight in gold.
Climbing Rope & Snap Links: A good length of rope and a couple snap links can help a team across a river. There are countless uses for rope and snap links for search and rescue, or survival training. One member in the team should carry a large rope. The rest of the members can carry 12 ft. lengths for tying a “Swiss seat”, and a smaller length for attaching your pack to the crossing rope.
Survival Trowel or E-Tool: A full blown e-tool might be a little too heavy for what you need. We recommend that you carry at least a high impact resin “survival trowel”. If you frequent remote areas that are generally subject to wild fires . . . you may bite the bullet and pack the extra weight of a full blown entrenching
With bush craft skills and the right tools, and individual can survive for quite a while in the wilderness. The best way that we’ve found to get used to our gear is to get out in the woods and go camping. We’ve tested these kits in all four seasons and they work great.
Here are the kits, Level II and III next to the Level I gear.
So there you have it, Level I, Level II and Level III kits. "Wired tight".
As always thanks for reading,
- The GLSC Team
Level II Survival Kit Purpose: Supplement to EDC / Local Search And Rescue, hiking, hunting
This Level II survival kit is based on what has been most useful to have in a second line of gear outside of “pocket gear”. With experience, no one knows what’s best for your kit than you. This outline is a good general place to start though if you’re looking for suggestions.
The idea of the level II kit is to have a few more items that are highly useful, but in a small pack, so that you will be more likely to have it on you when you're in the wild or far from home. Some people like to use fanny packs, some like satchels or other things. This particular pack, attaches to a larger ruck (the level III Survival Kit). This small pack is part of the U.S.M.C. ILBE load carrying equipment.
We’ve found most useful, that a small pack with a canteen pouch and first aid pouch attached to the outside, fills the role of a level II kit very nicely. It can be carried all day and hardly realize you have a pack on your
Level II Components:
Level II container: Small ILBE detachable pack, with military canteen pouch and first aid kit pouch.
Poncho: If I have a survival vest on, my poncho is in my kidney pouch. If I didn’t have anything but cargo pants . . . my poncho would be in the cargo pocket. Poncho’s are great for shelter, collecting water, and keeping dry. There are literally bunches of things to use a poncho for. You’d be hard pressed to find anyone from GLSC without their poncho in the wild. Old stock rubberized ponchos are tough and don’t leak. German surplus models are just about as good as the USGI models that are getting scarce.
Canteen Cup: This is my drinking cup, my frying pan and my cereal bowl. It’s light weight and can hold a lot of items when not in use. There are more light weight options out there, but these old USGI models give you the best bang for your buck.
Canteen Cup Stove: This stove fits right over the bottom of my canteen cup, and both tuck neatly in my level II canteen pouch. It was purchased from the www.canteenshop.com .
Insect Repellent / Insect head net: A little bottle fits right on the side pouch of the canteen cup pouch. (best
to keep 100% deet away from the inside container that you drink and cook from).
Tube of Peanut Butter: Unless you’re allergic, peanut butter offers a great source of protein, fat and salt. In a pinch, it’s easy to get yourself some calories for energy. Most importantly it never seems to go bad, and it’s
Bullion Cubes: If you need to harvest wild game, you’ll be happy you had something to season it with.
Professional Game Snares: Professional game snares are worth their weight in gold. The locking kind sure beat using paracord to make your game traps with.
IFAK: (Individual First Aid Kit.) Band-Aids, Pain Relief, Burn Gel, Anti-Bacterial Ointment, Electrolyte Tabs, Alcohol wipes, etc in a smaller kit. Great Lake Survival makes a handy little packet to throw in your level II kit. Again, it’s easy enough to make yourself if you want a more simple kit. Probably the most important items are the Israeli Battle Dressing and Tourniquet for major bleeding. The “IBD” and TK4 tourniquet put compression on the wound and can be applied by the person wounded if necessary.
*** Also, we recommend some sun screen. Being sun burnt anytime is bad, but being sun burnt when you're far from home just plain stinks.
Water Filter: We like the Sawyer .10 Absolute Micron water filter. Where most water filters only do .20 absolute microns, the Sawyer line of handheld filters double the filtration effort. Not only that, they come with a 1,000,000 gallon guarantee. If you have something you like though . . . use it! You know what you like, and if you’re experienced, you know what works. The best thing is to have a filter that fits in this kit. You can go a long time without food, but not so long without clean water.
Gloves & Socks: There should be a pair of socks in the level II kit, but another couple pairs don’t take up space
and dry socks are a life saver. A good pair of gloves does wonders for keeping the hands from getting cuts and infections. Anything is better than nothing in this category. There are better wicking socks out there, it’s all in what you want.
Distress Strobe: If you plan on, or could be ever assisting in the rescue of a person, or be rescued yourself, you might have one of these little guys with you. It too can fit inside your level II pouch if it’s compact enough.
Coffee or Tea Bags: You have a stove, you have canteen cup . . . a couple of coffee or tea bags are next to nothing as far as weight and size. Imagine being part of a search for a missing child in the wilderness, driving rain and sleet for the last 12 hours . . . The ability to make a warm cup of coffee and continue on the search might not be a bad thing.
Paracord: 20 – 50 ft of paracord. There’s not much bush craft that doesn’t have a use for paracord.
Hygiene Kit: Kept in a Nalgene collapsible bladder there is Camp suds, mineral salt deodorant, dental floss,
tooth brush, a shaving razor, tooth paste and whatever other small items you need to keep clean, of high morale and free from infection.
Each level kit, builds on the lower level. For instance, I have items in my level II kit that should be in my level III kit. If I can easily attach the level II kit to the outside of my large ruck, I’m less likely to have redundant items in my next higher kit, which will lighten the load. Lighter loads tend to have more of a chance of being taken with you, than left back at camp because “I’m just going up and over this hill for a few minutes . . .”
The purpose of the level I kit obviously is to have an everyday carry. Yes you might not have all the “pocket items” or a BIG KNIFE while you’re at work. But we can all carry a credit card sized survival kit.
Any place from short hiking trips in the local wilderness to more remote areas. You might be able to get away with leaving your large ruck in the vehicle if only a mile away, while taking your smaller pack. With the items
above, a person can survive in the wild for quite a while.
The important thing is that each level kit has its place and its practicality.
Again, it seems that the smaller and lighter the kit, the more likely that you will have it on you.
Thanks for reading,
- The GLSC Team
About GLSC Blog
The Great Lake Survival Blog is dedicated to the educated discussion of all things "Survival". Topics that interest us include American Liberties, Family Preparedness and Outdoor Survival.